An Affordable Alternative

The wines of Chile represent great value for money, and in Thailand, a country with exorbitant taxes on wine, it was inevitable that wines from South America’s leading wine producer would become popular.

by Michael Moore ( michael@restaurantsofbangkok.com )

Although wine has been made in Chile since the arrival of the Spanish in the 16^th century, it wasn’t until the 1980s that Chile started making the changes necessary for it to become a major player among the world’s wine producers.

The bulk of Chile’s vineyards fall between the latitudes of 32° and 38°, roughly the same as from southern Spain to North Africa were it in the Northern Hemisphere. The climate, however, is much more temperate and is classified as a ‘Mediterranean climate’ comparable to what is found in Bordeaux and much of the wine producing areas of California and Australia. Unlike most wine growing regions Chile has remained free of the phylloxera louse, which means its grape vines do not have to be grafted to root stock resistant to the louse.

The growth of the Chilean wine industry has been phenomenal. In 1990 the country exported 43,000,000 litres of wine; in 1995 it had grown to 129,000,000 litres; in 2002 it stood at 348,500,000 litres; and between July 2008 and Jun 2009 over one billion liters of wine was produced. In 1991 the country had 14 wineries; today the number stands at well over 100.

Perhaps the most exciting thing about Chilean wines is that they are improving each year. Vineyards have been upgraded and enlarged and many of the new plantings have matured to the point where they are now producing grapes for the winemakers. This means that old varieties have improved and that new types of wine are beginning to be marketed.

In addition, winemakers from other areas of the world have brought their skills to South America and have either formed partnerships or are producing their own wines outright. Big name players from the international wine scene include Robert Mondavi of California, Kendal‑Jackson of California, Chateaux Mouton Rothschild of Bordeaux, Chateau Lafite Rothschilds of Bordeaux and Miguel Torres of Spain.

There are several wine growing regions in Chile, but according to British wine guru Oz Clarke only two of them, Aconcagua and the Central Valley, are currently producing premium wine. The cool Southern region has yet to produce wines of high quality, but it appears to hold promise for grapes that prefer a cooler climate.

When reading a Chilean wine label, it is important to note that the origin of the wine is indicated by the name of the region, sub-region or a zone within the sub-region. Aconcagua and the Central Valley are both regions. Aconcagua is divided into the sub-regions of Aconcagua Valley and Casablanca Valley. The Central Valley – Valle Central in Spanish – is divided into four sub regions: Maipo, Rapel, Curico and Maule. Some of these sub-regions are divided into zones and only the name of the zone will appear on the bottle.

Aconcagua

The Aconcagua Valley has only one producer of note, Viña Errázuriz, a company producing wine under the Errázuriz and Seña labels. Its wines are highly regarded, especially the Seña wines it produces under a joint venture with California winemaker Robert Mondavi.

Casablanca Valley is farther west and has a cooler climate because of coastal fogs that come in off the Pacific. Its vineyards were planted in the 1980’s and produce some of Chile’s best white wines. There are several producers in the valley. Some of the most notable are Caliterra, Casa Lapostolle, Carmen, Concha y Toro, Cono Sur, Errazuriz, Santa Rita, Veramonte, Villard Estate and Vina Casablanca.

Central Valley

The Central Valley is Chile’s oldest wine producing region and where most of the country’s premium wines are produced. The valley is divided into sub-regions, some of which have unique sub climates. The grapes featured in the Central Valley are some of the mainstays of the wine maker’s art: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

It is interesting to note that much of the Merlot marketed from Chile is actually the Carmenere grape, a varietal that has all but disappeared in Europe. Although it was thought to be Merlot, it produces a slightly different tasting wine. The Chilean government still allows producers to label Carmenere as Merlot, but most producers now label bottles correctly as it becomes obvious that there is a market for both varieties of grape.

The sub-region known as the Maipo valley is close to Santiago and in danger of being enveloped by the growing suburbs. The dominant grape variety here is the Cabernet Sauvignon. In recent years more adventuresome wineries have planted Syrah (Shiraz), Mourvèdre, Viognier and Sangiovese grapes, but the fruits of these plantings are just beginning to be felt. Some of the most notable producers are Calitera, Canepa, Carmen, Concha y Toro, Santa Carolina, Tarapaca and Undurragga.

Probably the most exciting sub-region in Chile is the Rapel Valley. It is divided into zones that include the Colchagua Valley, Cachapoal Valley and Chimbarongo. At times, the only appellation on the bottle is the zone, so it is important to know these when buying Chilean wines.

The Colchagua Valley is not only responsible for some of Chile’s best known Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, it also produces some inexpensive wines that are of excellent character. Pinot noir is being produced with success in the Chachapoal Valley and holds great promise for the future. Chimbarongo is the home of Cono Sur, a producer who creates some good wines. Other notable producers are Casa Lapostolle, Chateau La Joya, Luis Felipe Edwards, Mont Gras, La Rosa, Las Vascos, Santa Laura, Villard, Vina Canepa, Vina Porta and Viu Manent.

Further south is Curico, a place that came to prominence in 1979 when the Spanish wine making mogul Miguel Torres set up operations in the area. Zones in this sub‑region include Lontue and Molina. The former is the home of Echeverria, a producer whose wines are often available in Thailand. Other notable producers include Caliterra, Montes, Miquel Torres, Valdivieso, Veramonte and Vina Canepa.

Maule, the most southerly of the sub-regions within the Central Valley, is dominated by white varieties. Although a few good wines have been produced, the area lags behind the other sub‑regions in the Central Valley in the number of premium wines produced. Notable producers include Carmen, Santa Carolina and Santa Rita. The last two are widely available in Thailand at reasonable prices.

When buying Chilean wines, be sure to check the label for the name of the producer and its appellation. These are not foolproof indicators of quality, but they are a good place to start. The rest is up to you. Taste and experiment and you will eventually find some personal favorites.