Where the Soi has No Name- Vegetarian Row

Tucked back on a small Soi just a few minutes walk from Khaosan Road, you will find a lane that offers some of the most affordable and delicious vegetarian dishes in town.

by Julia Chinnock

You might not expect high quality food in an area renowned for catering to transient back-packers and tourists- but after making your way to the area once, you will likely find yourself a pleasantly surprised repeat visitor.

Finding the Soi the first time is an adventure, since “vegetarian row” is actually an unnamed lane. These directions, from Khaosan Rd, should get you there easily enough, though--- Khaosan Road is flanked by roads at each end--- look for the Burger King, as you’ll want to be on the Tanao Rd. end. Where Khaosan Rd. ends, cross over Tanao Rd, and go left about 50 meters- there are several small lanes, about 30 meters long, that lead back to “vegetarian row.”

The first thing you’ll notice, in addition to the numerous restaurants advertising veggie fare, is the quiet atmosphere of this distinctively Thai lane. There is very little motorized traffic, and you are certain to see bicyclers and people walking. It seems a world away from the chaotic Khaosan scene, making it a wonderful place to relax and enjoy a meal. It is a nice lane to wander down, while taking in the extensive menu choices, doing a little people-watching, and enjoying the greenery provided by the well-tended potted plants.

There are three stand-out establishments on this Soi with no name. Depending on what type of food or atmosphere you are after, one is bound to meet your requirements. The first one worth pointing out is the Bangkok vegetarian institution, May Kaidees. The proprietor, May, is a bit of a local celebrity and can be recognized by the traditional Isan silk outfits that she always wears. A highlight of her restaurant is the 99 baht all you can eat vegetarian buffet and party held every Saturday from 6pm-10pm, where guests are able to sample an array of traditional Isan and Thai fare, while being treated to a show featuring classical Thai music and dancing.

The second place to check out is Number One, where the Thai kitchen staff remains true to timeless family recipes, providing an authentic Thai vegetarian meal for about 45 baht per dish. Number One also has a small offering of non-veggie fare for those who must have their meat. What Number One lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for in flavor and spice. More than the other eateries on the lane, Number One does not compromise and cater to foreign tastes by toning down the spiciness.

Ethos offers diners a third notable option, with a loungy atmosphere and food with a bit more international flare than others on the Soi, offering- in addition to Thai food- Indian, Western and Eastern vegetarian fare. Be sure to save room for dessert when dining at Ethos, as they make some amazing home baked treats like Apple Crumble with Coconut Cream Custard, Chocolate Fudge Cake and Banana Cake.

For Bangkok vegetarians and those who love us, this gem of a Soi is worthy of discovery.