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Exclusive Eating & The Relaxed Luxury of St Regis
Imagine French delicacies in a wonderful bistro in 1960s New York. Think big. Think lobster, prime cuts of meat, fine wines and decadence. Settle into the glamour, lounge-style, with laid-back vibe of it all. This is the world according to Viu, part of the St Regis Hotel, which more than holds it own amongst the luxury, Ratchadamri nobility.
Viu’s kitchen looks like part of a film set, with customers encouraged to wander into the cooking zone. There is a sophisticated, hip 60s feel about the place which is all grown up but still has a tremor of youthful excitement which is sensed in every morsel. Diners who pre-book a chef’s table experience face the theatre of the kitchen.
Open ovens bronze bread rolls, which come to the table still in their trays, with a simple broccoli dip, olive oil and butter. A pre-appetizer sets the luxury tone with what looks like a croquette with a puree of pan-fried foie gras with red wine. The seafood plateau, for 1,400 thb, is a huge, icy, silver dish made for two, which takes you to the French Riviera and back again.
Alaskan king crab, Boston lobster, sashimi, sushi, French oysters and wonderfully huge Thai tiger prawns are accompanied by a Pinot Grigio Santa Margherita 2009 for 2,000 thb to bring perfection ashore. Pan fried Atlantic scallops with pork lard, pea puree, almonds and with a special splash of truffle oil because the chef felt like it, should be good with less than a handful at 860 thb and they are, of course, divine.
The lobster bisque for 510 thb is quite possibly the best in the whole of Bangkok. It does not hold back with its unique, bold and smoky aroma. It is velvety, robust, as well as soft and strong. With a big cube of meaty lobster drenched in the silky juices and extra virgin olive oil ice cream, it is so good it might make you lose all sense of time and space as you fall into its depth of flavors.
The wagyu beef tartar, for 550 thb with French mustard, bloody mary essence and green tea shows the real star quality of this menu, although a little less mustard would allow the meat flavor to really take center stage. The 2009 Concha Y Toro Merlot for 1,500 thb is a good priced, worthy partner. The Australian wagyu 11 oz prime rib, which is marble 4, is exceptional value at 1,290 thb. The black, green and red pepper sauce is classic and rich. This is a steak after all.
Different sauces, marinades and seasoning, such as Hawaiian red sea salt and Japanese aguni sea salt give this New York-French-Bangkok eatery a bit of a 1960s rebel kick. The chocolate fondue, for 700 thb for two, fits the seafood and steak extravaganza but does not blow the bobby socks off so to speak.
Viu at St Regis is a reminder of why great food should always be celebrated, and eaten in style.
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