The Reflexions 3rd Level, Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel

Hoh hum is the reaction many of us have to hotel restaurants. Designed to appeal to a common denominator reflective of the hotel's clientele, they often lack spark and originality. They aren't going to offend, but neither are they going to excite. In short, many of them are a monumental bore. This isn't the case with The Reflexions, the award-winning French restaurant, at Plaza Athénée Bangkok.

Published on 05/10/2011

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The hotel has always made the effort and provided the resources necessary to make this a special place with an appeal based upon quality and uniqueness. It is relatively small with 60 seats and a mezzanine for gatherings and private dining. The dimly lit interior is adorned with large black and white photos, a large screen featuring silent movies from the past and a unique ceiling featuring what appear to be twinkling stars. Very French and a tad on the funky side, but the décor surprisingly creates a substantial and elegant feeling that is reflected by excellent and unobtrusive service.

A major factor in the success of The Reflexions is the presence of Chef de Cuisine Thibault Chiumenti. A native of France, he arrived at the restaurant when he was only 23 and made an immediate impression with both his traditional French dishes and his exciting and innovative creations. Now 28 and settled into life in Bangkok, including the ‘acquisition’ of a Thai wife, he has a dedication to the restaurant not often seen in hotel chefs.

“I love working here,” he told me. “I have no regrets about my decision to move to Bangkok. I have a great support team and I am much more confident than when I arrived. Management expects me to follow their guidelines, but they also give me the freedom to be creative. I get bored easily and I love to experiment and create new dishes. It adds excitement to my job!”

During our visit, we sampled a few of Chef Thibault's imaginative efforts and found them intense, exciting and filled with the flavor of the quality seasonal ingredients obtained by the hotel. The highlight was his 1300 baht main course of Roasted pigeon breast and duck liver pastilla, black truffle, Brussels sprouts and glazed baby carrots. The pigeon was plump and succulent and the duck liver added a pleasant little tang. The Brussels sprouts, a vegetable rarely encountered locally, were shredded and provided a delightful nuance to the dish.

Another highlight was the 850 baht Foie gras terrine, stuffed cherry with shallot compote. Foie gras has an affinity for fruit and this dish illustrates that cherries are one of these fruits. This is a thoroughly delightful excursion into the world of foie gras.

If you like those savory daubes and stews the French create, don't miss Thibault's Slow braised New Zealand beef cheeks with onion and cognac, glazed baby vegetables and red wine sauce. The rich and tender beef is redolent with the taste of wine and onions. This a real treat for anyone into the homely treat of meat dishes with a variety of flavors created by slow cooking.

We finished our meal with a delightful combination of raspberries, strawberries and blueberries served with a dash of vanilla crème. This delightful concoction was whipped up by Chef Thibault on the spur of the moment and wasn't on the menu. It was delicious and a great indication of the depth of his skills.

The wine list is extensive with a selection of wines from around the world. Especially noteworthy is the range of exceptional boutique wines, something not found on most hotel wine lists. The Reflexions also hosts monthly wine tasting events in a relaxed atmosphere with the chance to meet some of the locals.

This is a restaurant that deserves all of the accolades it receives. If you are interested in fine dining French style, be sure to give it a visit.

Visit The Reflexions's Profile | Map | Gallery