Ten-Sui

Ten-Sui is an upmarket restaurant considered by many local Japanese to be the finest Japanese restaurant in Bangkok. Located in a gray building that appears to be a converted residence, it has a subdued, discreet feeling that carries a touch of elegance. There is a Japanese garden and a sliding door, sandwiched between two large Japanese lanterns at the entrance.

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The interior is quintessential Japanese with the requisite dark wood, tatami and art pieces. There is a large sushi bar and a combination of Western-style and Japanese tatami seating. There are four private tatami rooms upstairs that are popular in the evening with Japanese businessmen. Kimono clad servers patter about quietly, catering to the needs and whims of customers.

According to Managing Director Yasuyuki Fuji, the restaurant has two distinct personalities. At lunchtime the majority of the customers are shoppers and business types in search of a quick and inexpensive meal. There are more non-Japanese customers than at dinner. The restaurant meets the needs of these customers with a collection of reasonably priced set and bento (Japanese meal served in lacquered boxes) lunches. This is ideal for those not familiar with Japanese food as it supplies them with a balanced meal with a variety of Japanese dishes.

For shoppers and business people, it supplies them with an economically priced lunch of excellent quality in peaceful surroundings that provide a respite from the hectic world outside. The prices for the lunches range from 450 to 1250 baht. They usually include a main dish of some sort, miso soup, pickled Japanese vegetables, a bowl of Japanese-style rice and a small dessert.

In the evening, it is a completely different ballgame. The restaurant is transformed into a place that serves Japanese food of the highest quality with prices that match what is served. Many of the customers are Japanese businessmen on company accounts who really aren't concerned about what the meal will cost.

A kaiseki meal is an elegant Japanese set meal that strives to balance taste, texture, appearance and colors in what is served. Fresh seasonal ingredients are used and prepared in ways that enhance their flavor. The garnishes and presentation of the food are as important as the food itself. The plates used are also important and are chosen to match and highlight what is served. They range from elegant ceramics to a rustic slab of wood or even a piece of stone.

As an elegant restaurant Ten-Sui takes special care with its kaiseki meals. There is a nine-course meal at 2500 baht and a ten-course meal at 3500 baht. Other kaiseki feasts are available at prices up to 9500 baht per meal. Since kaiseki dining features seasonable specialties, what is served changes frequently and with the seasons.

As in all Japanese restaurants, sashimi and sushi are important. Ten-Sui takes care to serve only the finest and freshest available. Most of it comes from Japan, but exceptional seafood from other areas is also imported. We were especially fond of the toro (fatty tuna) and tai (sea bream). We also enjoyed a variety of traditional sushi items, all of which were pristine and fresh. Care has to be taken when dining on the sushi as your bill will quickly skyrocket.

Ten-Sui is a Japanese restaurant so the wine list is limited, but there is loads of sake in a variety of price ranges. The service is quiet and unobtrusive, but a server is always present when you need one.

The a la carte menu includes a wide selection of some of Japan's finest traditional dishes. There are also numerous dishes that highlight the imagination and quality of Ten-Sui's chefs. If you have deep pockets, try the grilled Matsuzaka beef. A simple dish of fish grilled with salt and lemon (kinki shio) is simple, but superb. The tempura in most restaurants in Bangkok suffers from being soggy and greasy. Not so at Ten-Sui; it is crisp and the vegetables and other items retain their crunch and freshness. Kabinabe, a soup served over a flame in special flameproof paper, is a favorite with many customers. We especially enjoyed the Senba-Jiru kabinabe, a fish soup with mackerel, radish, carrots, and leek. There is, of course, much more, but you will have to visit the restaurant to discover the items yourself.

Ten-Sui has an on-site parking lot and is a ten-minute walk from both the Asoke BTS and Sukhumvit MRT stations. A great restaurant for a reasonable lunch and an ideal place for a special dinner of superb quality.

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