Duilios - Down-to-Earth Italian Food

She's a pretty girl in a pearl necklace and a little black dress, Duilio's is. She's not showing too much boob or acting like a runaway model. She doesn't need bling or flash to get your eye. Elegant and simplified and confident.

ROB Review - Duilios Italian Restaurant

Established in 1999, and with the same chef for 11 years, Duilio's is welcome relief from the haute cuisine and celebrity chefs and Michelin blah blah that's cast its ominous spell across the land. As manager Alessandro puts it, Duilio's doesn't change to suit the latest trends.

At Duilio's you stick to the basics. Pizza with Parma ham (Pizza al Prosciutto de Parma, 320 Baht). Thick, generous slices of Parma, crust made of genuine “00” flour flown in from Italy. Simple and meaty—this is pizza the way God intended. If you like a crunch in your crust, make them keep it in the oven a minute longer. If you've got the balls, try the pizza with tomato, ricotta, spicy salami, mushroom and fresh rocket (Pizza Contadina, 350 Baht). The soft ricotta curds were a good counterpoint to the chewy salami. The hearty serving of fresh, peppery rocket made this dish memorable. The salami was advertised as being “spicy”. Not spicy enough for my tongue. Real men like it hot. Throw in a fist full of bird's eye chillies and this pizza would be perfecto.

Fresh pastas are a specialty. The lobster ravioli (ravioli filled with lobster & served with lobster bisque, 280 Baht) tasted surprisingly fresh for a Thursday night. Turns out that good chefs know how to keep different types of ingredients at different temperatures and storage methods to preserve freshness. The bisque was mature but not too complex. The pasta was silky and had a satisfying bite.

The Caesar salad (Giulio Cesare, 280 Baht) was a surprise. No raw eggs in this dressing, and very different from the creamy-white Caesar salads served in cafes around Bangkok (or the eerily sweet dressings they sell in the supermarkets). A light anchovy flavored oil was served with marinated pieces of chicken and bacon, croutons and tossed with a huge portion of crunchy fresh leaves. An otherwise light salad was made wholesome with the addition of the flavor-packed chicken. I think they dumped in a little too much chicken, but I'm a caveman and I like it that way.

If you're in the mood for a decent steak, try the tenderloin (Charcoal grilled Australian Meltique beef tenderloin, 730 Baht). A good chunk of beef on a wooden slab with herb butter and a big portion of rosemary potatoes and broccoli. This isn't the best steak in the world but it is delicious. Tell them to butterfly it before the throw it on the grill, and do it medium. The fat in Meltique beef is evenly distributed and it works best when properly cooked, rather than pink.

The Zabaione (120 Baht) made me squeal like a horny piggy. A super-sweet pudding of whipped egg white, cream and custard that says “Calories? What Calories? Sugar baby sugar!”. This sweetness injection will get you pumped up for a night of sweet sweet lovin'. If your doctor objects, get the tiramisu instead (170 Baht). Well made, semi-sweet and yummy.

Don't take your high-flying customers here, and don't come here on your first date. In fact, don't bring anybody with more than three designer labels on them at any given time. Duilio's is down-to-earth, honest Italian food. A great place for a group of friends or a family dinner. This restaurant relies on loyal clientele who come back year after year. Add me to the list. Quality ingredients at a fair price without too much boob. What more can a man ask for? Grunt.

ROB Review - Duilios Italian Restaurant