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Benjarong - The Dusit Bangkok
As the Thai restaurant in the signature hotel of the leading Thai owned hotel chain in the world, there is a lot of pressure on Benjarong to succeed. Fortunately, it more than responds to the challenge and is near the top of any list of fine restaurants in Bangkok.
Located below the lobby in the lower level of the hotel, it overlooks an artificial waterfall and garden area. This could easily be tacky, but it succeeds in adding an element of peacefulness to the restaurant and provides a casual place for those who love the great outdoors to dine.
If you are in search of a little class, the interior of the restaurant is where you will find it.
Traditionally clad servers scurry noiselessly across the heavy carpet, effortlessly waiting on customers and informing the uninitiated of the intricacies of Thai food. The lighting is low; the place settings feature elegant bone china; and the furniture is substantial and comfortable. Although the décor is essentially ‘European’, subtle decorative touches communicate this is a Thai restaurant.
The food here centers on Royal Thai cuisine, a fabled collection of elaborate dishes that often have sweet coconut curries as a base. These are the dishes that have made Thailand’s cuisine internationally famous and are what many foreigners equate with Thai food. In addition to these rich and savory selections, there are numerous other Thai dishes on the menu, all of which have been carefully chosen to represent the best of what Thailand has to offer.
Many diners, especially those not familiar with Thai food, order one of the restaurant’s three set menus comprised of seven courses and coffee or tea. The prices are B900, B1200 and B1400, with the more expensive menus featuring more costly dishes. The set menus include dishes from the regular menu so quality is not diminished by ordering a set meal.
We started with Mieng Kham, a selection of herbs, nuts and dried coconut that are piled on a tasty leaf, rolled, dipped in a sweet sauce and then popped in the mouth. The result is a heady explosion of flavors that immediately lets one know what real Thai food is all about. We progressed to Yam Pla Duk Foo, shredded and crispy fried catfish served with shredded green mango and cashew nuts. This spicy salad is not only piquant and tasty; it also shows the unique imagination of Thai chefs.
For curries, we tried Chu Chee Kam Poo Talay, crab claws topped with a sweet red curry sauce. In many ways this is Benjarong’s signature dish. They do a superb job and although the sauce is rich and spicy, care is taken to insure it doesn’t overpower the taste of the crab. We also had Gaeng Phed Ped Yang, roast duck in red curry served with salted eggs and sweetened pork. It was also tasty, but our hearts were with the crab curry. Soup is obligatory with a Thai meal and we decided to have something with chicken in it. We opted for Tom Kha Kai, a dish of chicken in a coconut broth that has been heavily flavored with galangal, a spice much admired by the Thais. Since mangos were in season we finished the evening with mango with sticky rice and coconut almond ice cream. It was a delicious and fitting conclusion to a marvelous meal.
The wine list at the Benjarong is extensive and ranges well beyond the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay only syndrome typical at many Thai restaurants. We had a sauvignon blanc from Chile that stood up well to the heat and spiciness of Thai food. There is a large selection of other beverages available, including traditional Thai drinks like tamarind juice, pandan leaf juice, lemongrass juice and roselle flower juice.
Benjarong represents Thai dining at its finest. If you are seeking an elegant Thai meal or have out of town guests that you want to impress with the best in Thai food, Benjarong is a must. By Thai standards it is rather expensive, but the service, food and elegant atmosphere make it worth the money.
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