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Rakuza - Thonglor Tokyo
It is not quite clear if Thonglor was made for Rakuza Tokyo or the other way round. Either way they fit together like they have been partners in a good night out, in the most attractive part of Bangkok forever.
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The feel, the tone, the décor, the menu and the general vibe at Rakuza Tokyo is so perfectly right that you instantly feel you are in the right place at the right time as soon as you enter the door. Like a stunning celebrity actress who can actually act the part, Rakuza Tokyo gives an A list performance when it comes to the food and the young Japanese, professional and passionate head chef who has come over from Sydney is destined for culinary fame.
Contemporary, with smoky glass tables, chic, with low seating, low lighting and white aproned staff, Rakuza Tokyo exudes understated sophistication. The big glass building with vaulted style ceiling looks like an art exhibition space with its open kitchen and wonderfully designed bar area, with red funky stools and sparkling decor that is separated from the restaurant with a glass wall but cleverly opens out onto the mellow decking dining area.
Upstairs the large space is more formal with white table clothes for a more sit up straight approach to dinner. There is also a private function room. The menu is not traditional Japanese although it probably has some of the best Japanese dishes in town. It boldly steps into the modern fusion world, confident of its raw talent.
Make no mistake though, Rakuza Tokyo is not about haphazardly mixing East and West cooking styles and flavors but creating unique dishes. The otoro and seared otoro sushi at 250 thb a piece is large, a sushi lover’s dream and top quality. The sashimi comes with three pieces at 600 thb. Tapas of seared tempura with shrimp, butternut pumpkin, mushroom and green perilla with red perilla salt and a subtle but perfect dip is, at 200 thb like tasting tempura for the first time.
The Australian prime beef carpaccio with pickled Japanese plums, mushrooms and green perilla is another 200 thb taste sensation tapas. At 450 thb, the cold dish of barely cooked scallop, sweet shrimp, sea urchin, orange fish roe, wasabi fish roe, dried mullet roe and Russian caviar in a chardonnay cream sauce is decadently fresh and light, if a little fancy.
To show this menu has a love of food, rather than conventionally taking the traditional route is the achingly good meat and mash main, at a reasonable 480 thb, with six hours prime beef cheek in red miso and cabernet sauvignon sauce that is a fall off the fork delicacy with creamed mashed potatoes.
Desserts serve up worthy supporting roles. Citrus crème brulee at 120 thb is fabulous and the 150 thb couveture chocolate pudding with three kinds of berries sauce and vanilla ice cream has even the most reserved chocoholic craving for more.
In Rakuza Tokyo, a Sukhumvit star is born.
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