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The 5-Star Marketplace: Panorama Perfection
Sitting in the dark wooden, green lamped casual sophistication of the Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Panorama restaurant, 23 floors up, life feels better than good. This is the setting for a unique and exciting new restaurant concept which is grill dining to share, with an interactive look at what you eat before you order.
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The view is spectacular; a cityscape that doesn’t show off but, like the whole Panomara experience, exudes an expectation of the best. Dining is next to floor-to- ceiling panels of glass and two low slung bars add a sense of olde worlde American lounge class, perfect for a midnight cheese plate. The two main kitchens are exhibition pieces of modern culinary art in the middle of the restaurant.
Down the aisle between them baskets of raw vegetables and trays of seafood and succulent meats look the most alluring foods on earth, set out in a marketplace style. With the chef wizardry on show, the best ingredients before your very eyes and a to-share menu expertly designed to create your own bespoke meal there is a feeling of being part of something creatively new at Panorama.
The Farmer Salad at 320 thb with smoked duck breast, gruyere and poached egg and a wholegrain mustard dressing works perfectly before the grill arrives. It is more than the sum of its parts which is the only way any salad should be served. For appetizers the toasted bread with tomato is agreeable, the warm king crab moreish, although too small to fight over and the pan-fried foie gras with pear arguably the best in Bangkok, especially with the lychee undertones of the recommended Wa’ru River gewürztraminer white.
The grill foods come individually or in sharing combos with the most luxurious being Love Me at 1300 thb. Arriving on a long plate is chorizo sausage, pork chop, baby chicken, lamb rack and wagyu ribeye. Green pepper sauce, mushroom sauce and a smoky Andalucía sauce are perfect grill condiments. Chosen sides included celeriac mash, zucchini and fried mushrooms. The thought of such a feast is mouth watering, the taste is even better. Velvety, robust and yet comforting.
The wines are expertly presented, standing on equal footing with the food. Lightbrand NZ Sauvignon Blanc sets the appetite with a smooth Australian Stonefish Shiraz (Coonwara Estate) and award winning Hugo Casanova Chilean Merlot and Savagarro Cabernet Sauvignon, not to mention a delightfully dry Arrogant Frog Grenache Blanc-Chardonnay, all with a few hundred baht price tag on each stem.
Panorama is a 5-star equivalent of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory for adults who want to enter a world of the finest foods and wine rather than just simply scan a menu. Almost in recognition of this the dessert plate is all sugary fruit jellies and marshmallows with berry soup, lemon tart, brûlée, a pink macaroon, vanilla ice-cream and the best chocolate fondant in the world. For a 5-star hotel to deliver such individual talent takes Panorama into a culinary class of its own.
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