Melo is Much More Than Meets the Eye

For die hard foodies there are few things as thrilling as the anticipation and excitement that comes from discovering a fabulous new restaurant; and food lovers in Bangkok just got a new reason to celebrate. Melo is a fantastic food find that is building an early reputation as one of the best new restaurants in the city in which to try innovative international cuisine that won’t break the bank.

Published on 05/01/2012

By Melissa Richter

Food is the main focus at Melo and owner Stanley Wang and Chef Tony Egger have collaborated on an ambitious menu that delivers on taste as much as it does on value. Chef Tony, who hails from Austria, brings more than 30+ years of experience to the table and has worked in top kitchens around the world. “We like to take common ingredients and explore them in a different way” stated Stanley Wang, ”It’s all about presenting familiar flavors in unexpected and innovative ways.”

A passion for food science is also apparent, as all the recipes are tested and developed with an enduring respect for the ingredients and with expert attention to detail. This is thoughtful cuisine that stimulates all the senses and is as good as anything you will find in 5 star establishments.

Start your gourmet meal off with a bottle of PKNT Carmenère, 2010. This is a little known red wine from Chile that is robust and earthy with both spicy and fruity notes and a refreshingly smooth finish. It’s well matched with Melo’s flavorsome cuisine, such as the rich and gooey Parmesan Cheese Puffs with Chimichurri Lime Dip (140 Baht) or the tantalizing Shrimp Tempura with Spicy Orange Aioli & Baby Pea Sprouts (160 Baht). The tempura is comprised of sweet succulent shrimp which are deep-fried in a well seasoned crunchy batter and served with a spicy and creamy sauce and fresh crisp sprouts. It’s a masterful dish that showcases contrasting textures and complementary flavors.

Another fantastic starter is the Sweet Pork belly Confit with Spicy Green Papaya Salad (180 Baht). This dish takes the concept of simple street food and stands on its head by elevating the dish to dizzying heights. The pork belly is marinated for 12 hours, and then they sous vide the pork for another 12 hours. It’s a mind blowing amalgamation of delightful sensations from the crispy sweet and smoky caramelized bits, to the rich creamy fat and the firm succulent meat. The spicy papaya salad balances the richness of the pork belly for an immensely cohesive and satisfyingly tasty experience.

We also recommend the Hand Cut Homemade French Fries (60 Baht) which are like no other fries you have ever tried. They are blanched and then twice fried so that eating them becomes an almost ethereal experience. Perfectly executed from beginning to end, they have the creamy consistency of mashed potatoes on the inside, but the crispy crunch you crave on the outside. They are a prime example of what can happen when humble ingredients are placed in the hands of real artisans.

The main dishes are no less spectacular and the Char Grilled Spanish Mackerel with Sautéed Bok Choy & Grilled Eryngii Mushrooms (420 Baht) is a masterpiece. It’s as captivating and memorable as it is tasty. You’ve never had mackerel like this, as it is a symphony of crispy skin and moist, flakey fish that is lovingly paired with earthy baby bok choy and buttery eryngii mushrooms with a light sauce that leaves you wanting more. The Grilled Sea Bass with Roasted Sweet Garlic, Capers, Lime Butter & Sautéed Spinach (320 Baht).

This is another beguiling offering; as is the Slow Braised Boneless Beef Shank with Sautéed Mushrooms, & Creamy Mashed Potatoes (380 Baht). The beef shank is a complex dish in which they sous vide the beef and then slowly braise it in order to fully develop the rich and robust flavor of the meat.

Dessert at Melo is another unexpected thrill and there is a choice of unique offerings you won’t find anywhere else priced at only 120 Baht each. Creativity and innovation are self evident as you won’t find typical desserts like panacotta, molten chocolate cake or crème brûlée.

Instead treat yourself to the homemade Salt Caramel Gelato which is a revelation of salty sweet creamy decadence. The Apple Tempura with Sweet Vanilla Ice Cream with Fresh Lime leaf & Chili is another show stopper that combines hot deep fried apples with cool and refreshing ice cream with an unexpected chili kick that is absolutely sublime.

Every once in a while a new restaurant comes along and exceeds your expectations in every way. Melo is such a place. With nothing on the menu priced over 600 Baht, dining at Melo is as pleasing on the pocket as it is on the palate. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel like you can’t wait to come back only minutes after finishing your meal.

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