Ma Maison: Swissotel Nai Lert Park Bangkok

Ma Maison was once one of Bangkok's finest French restaurants. Although it has had some ups and downs over the last few years, Ma Maison is on an 'up' and is working vigorously to reestablish itself as one of the city's finest French restaurants. Although it has yet to quite reach its former pinnacle, everyone at the restaurant is working hard to see that it reestablishes itself. Fortunately, there are signs that it is awakening from its slumber and is ready to once again be considered one of the city's finest restaurants.

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Located on the lower level of the hotel, the restaurant overlooks the Nai Lert Park's renowned gardens, providing it with a peaceful, green atmosphere. The dining rooms are large and the tables are far apart, creating privacy often lacking in Bangkok eating-places. There is a lot of dark wood and tables are elegantly appointed with beautiful white linen tablecloths and napkins. Although the restaurant is decidedly upscale, it is less formal and more relaxed than in the past. There is a private room for private gatherings and groups of up to 10 diners.

The kitchen is under the control of Sous Chef Florian Eberhardt, a native of Dusseldorf who developed his skills in several fine European restaurants – most notably at the Michelin starred Restaurant 44 at Swissôtel Berlin. Chef Florian describes his creations as 'French European'. They have a contemporary light and healthy twist while retaining the qualities and traditions that have made French food famous.

Although the most elegant dining takes place in the evening, Ma Maison features a set lunch for shoppers and business people that represents excellent value for money. In the evening, things get more serious when diners avail themselves of the a la carte menu and the impressive degustation menu. The latter is an impressive collection of five dishes for 2750 baht or 4500 baht with five wines chosen to match each dish on the menu.

The service is excellent at the restaurant and interaction with customers involves the servers preparing some items table-side. We enjoyed the Caesar salad (380 baht) prepared from a cart by the restaurant's energetic manager Suwakon Swangkarn. It contained both romaine lettuce and anchovies, essential ingredients for an authentic version of this famous salad. Equally impressive was the job done with the Crepes Suzette (420 baht) prepared by one of our servers while we watched with anticipation.

We sampled several of Florian's creations and found all of them delicious and well presented. Our favorite was his signature Turbot with asparagus, celery and apple. In this traditional dish, Chef Florian cubes the celery and apple and places it on top of the fish. He then parts with tradition and dresses it with a beurre blanc enlivened with finely chopped jalapeno pepper. This provides what is sometimes a rather plain dish with excitement and originality.

Another dish that caught our fancy was the Australian tenderloin served with steamed leek, curry and fresh goat's cheese gnocchi. The quality of the beef when combined with interesting combination of accompanying flavors makes this dish a standout. Leek is always good with beef, but the small rounds of gnocchi and curry sauce provide a fascinating – and delicious – accompaniment.

We finished with Crepes Suzette, a glass of brandy and relaxed conversation induced by the beautiful atmosphere and fine food.

Ma Maison is back! If you haven't been to the restaurant in a while, give it a try. We think you will find the revival of this restaurant a welcome addition of fine places to dine in Bangkok. The Swissôtel Nai Lert Park is a short walk from the Ploenchit BTS Station and is easily reached by car. There is lots of on site parking at the hotel.

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