L’Opera Restaurant

L’Opera is a bit like your favorite pair of old shoes: a bit scruffy on the outside, but warm and comfortable on the inside. Located on Sukhumvit Soi 39, it is easily identified by the theater marquee out front with ‘L’Opera presents’ written on it.

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Since nothing usually follows these words, what L’Opera presents is often a mystery, but the sign is part of the mystique of this multi‑faceted dining spot and is a well-known symbol of the restaurant.

In most places the building extends right up to the sidewalk so L’Opera isn’t surrounded by greenery. This really isn’t a negative feature, however, as it adds to the impact caused by the warmth and charm found on the inside of the restaurant. It also means the restaurant’s parking lot is behind the restaurant rather than in front of it. The surprisingly spacious parking area is reached by driving through a ‘tunnel’ in the building that hides cars and their occupants from view.

L’Opera is the ‘granddaddy’ of Bangkok’s numerous quality Italian restaurants. Several of its chefs and a former owner have gone on to open their own restaurants. In spite of the turnover, the restaurant has a cadre of regulars, including several prominent politicians, who have been dining at the place for years. Some customers return so often that brass signs with their names engraved on them are used to reserve tables.

The loyalty is based upon good food. Chef-partner Marco Ravasio is a veteran of the international culinary scene and is a constant presence at the restaurant. He knows his clientele and insures that the food is of high quality and that everyone is satisfied.

Entering the L’Opera takes you into a compact little bar area where you can enjoy a before-dinner drink. After leaving the bar, there are two main dining areas; one a rustic cavern with brick walls, piles of wine bottles and lots of Italian memorabilia and the other an atrium-like room with secluded tables and a small garden visible through the glass. There are numerous small rooms upstairs that can be used for private gatherings, celebrations and business meetings.

Lunch is popular at L’Opera. You can start (and finish if you like) with the sumptuous 200 baht appetizer buffet that includes salads and dressings, boiled and grilled vegetables, cold cuts, and specialty items like Insalata caprese. If you want you can add or start with a ‘soup of the day’ for 95 baht or a 150 baht pasta dish like a tasty Seafood cassopipa, spaghetti with a spicy shellfish sauce. If this doesn’t suit your fancy, you can choose from a selection of pizzas like the excellent Gorgonzola with spinach at only 190 baht. If you are hungry and want a main course, there is a variety on offer at 240 baht. I had the Fritto misto a la Venice, a delicious mix of fried seafood and fish. If you still have room, for baht 90 you can add a dessert. For those who order two or more courses, a coffee or tea is included in the price.

In the evening, L’Opera is popular with those who want a romantic and secluded dining experience. The restaurant’s a la carte menu is extensive and includes several items that have become ‘signature dishes’. These include a personal favorite, Pollo a la cacciatore. If you like rustic chicken dishes with tomato sauce, this 420 baht combination is a classic. Many people love to start with the restaurant’s 420 baht combination of Aged Parma ham served with salad and marinated fresh strawberries. The Osso bucco Milanese at 520 is popular with many as are the numerous beef dishes like the scrumptious Filleto al Gorgonzola, a combination of Australian beef and heavenly Italian cheese. For those with a sweet tooth, there is an extensive selection of desserts including a smashing Valhrona chocolate mousse at 180 baht.

The restaurant has an extensive selection of 450 different Italian wines and 54 grappas. Like all wine in Bangkok, it isn’t cheap, but care is taken to provide selections in all price ranges. There is also a good selection of wines by the glass and house wines are available in carafes or by the glass. In spite of this we would like to see some cheaper wines available by the bottle, something the restaurant can only achieve if it adds wines from places like Chile, Argentina and South Africa to its wine list.

L’Opera isn’t only a restaurant. It also includes a newly opened delicatessen store with a wine bar and pizzeria. The Italian deli allows customers to not only buy olives, olive oil and the like, but also to purchase already prepared salads, pasta dishes and pizza to take home to eat.

For those who want wine and a snack, there is a wine bar that opens at 17.30 and remains open until late. The pizza oven is fired up at about 17.00 and churns out a complete selection of all the classic pizzas plus some house specialties.

L’Opera is open daily from 11.30-14.30 and 18.00-22.30. Be sure to call 02-258-5606 for reservations as the restaurant can get busy.

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