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Citrus adds Culinary Zest
So many hotel restaurants sink into the bistro backdrop as they concentrate on guests or struggle to coax in those not looking for a room for the night. Most hotel restaurants though are not run with the talent, energy, drive and pure, unadulterated love of food that is behind Citrus.
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Even eating at Citrus you feel the same sense of excitement with the food as you would if you were witnessing the creative juices flowing of the culinary equivalent of a dot com kid. A meal at the boutique St. James Hotel eatery, just minutes walk from Phrom Phong makes you feel spoilt, looked after and even understood. Only someone who loves eating and cooking could know how to feed you this well.
The dining room has a muted, smart-casual feel to it with some formal seating and some more lounge style lower seats. There is a definite branding with brown fabric menus and pretty orange embroidery logos. One wall is glass with a waterfall and koi carp and the other glass wall leads out to an attractive outdoor eating area with a small swimming pool, greenery and a cozy ambience.
The menu is mainly European, with some Thai dishes, and a strong English influence from the mother of the household who understands just how good some classic English dishes can be and has taught her super-chef son how to recreate them.
Smoked salmon wrapped around rocket and pea sprouts with a spicy citrus sauce is amazingly good. At 240 THB it is one to share and is fresh and zesty with some heat. The seafood thermidor at 380 THB is baked mixed seafood of scallops, prawn, squid and salmon with mushrooms in a creamy mustard sauce topped with melted cheddar, gruyere, and parmesan with mozzarella and served with a jacket potato with sour cram and salad. The brandy kick and four cheese mix has you immediately hooked.
The English style crab cake with wasabi sauce at 180 THB is nothing like the Thai version. It is crisp but soft and delicate and not to be found anywhere else in Bangkok. The oxtail stew and mashed potato is rich, dark, melt-in-the-mouth; a nourishing culinary cauldron of mealtime magic. The spaghetti Bolognese is not too saucy and has a homemade taste that so many bistros try to achieve and don’t come anywhere near this close. The parmesan is grated at the table by the waiter which is a nice touch.
The carrot cake is the best ever tasted, thanks to mum’s recipe again and the sticky toffee pudding is swimming in gooey deliciousness. The cocktails are creative, inventive and combine flavours such as raspberry vodka, peach brandy and fresh watermelon, not to mention the chocotini which is divine. The wine menu is detailed and comes from the pen of a chef who has a passion for vino too. For all its relaxed vibe there is an excitement for food at Citrus that can be tasted in every part of the menu.
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