4 Garcons Brasserie

Filled with incongruities, a few beginners’ mistakes, surprisingly good food and a chic and modern ambiance, 4 Garcons is a fascinating place. It’s not only worth talking about, it merits a visit. Plus, it leaves one with the feeling that it is going to get much better. The owners are intelligent, open to suggestion and change, and most important of all, are passionate about what they are doing.

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Let’s first look at some of the incongruities.

It is owned and operated by four partners, three Thais and one Chinese/American. They all share a love of good French food, but none has any experience as a restaurateur. This is often a recipe for disaster, especially if one of the neophytes is operating the kitchen, but this doesn’t appear to be happening here.

The partner in charge of the kitchen is a distinguished doctor from Bumrungrad Hospital and a foodie who loves to cook. He mans the kitchen in the evening and churns out food ranging from good to outstanding – and nothing we tried turned out to be a disaster. This is a remarkable achievement in a new restaurant, no matter who is operating the kitchen.

Beginner’s mistakes?

The wine list has some problems. It is split into two main categories: “White & Champagne” and “Red & Blush Wines.” Dessert wines are included in the first category, even when they are neither white nor champagne. This category is also used to include sparkling wines that aren’t white or champagne. The biggest problem is the reference to ‘blush’ wines in the second category. Blush wines were in vogue in California a few years back and had the color of someone ‘blushing’. Most people, who enjoy good wine, considered them a disaster as they possessed little character and tasted a bit like kool-aid. Thankfully, they seem to have receded into the background.

But let’s look at the food; after all, this is what a restaurant is really all about.

We found little if anything to complain about with the food. It was well prepared, attractively presented and generally a joy to eat. In addition the menu is comprehensive and includes several French specialties rarely, if ever, seen in Bangkok.

There are over 20 appetizers, including admirable renditions of Steamed mussels with saffron and mustard (380++ baht, Goat cheese tart (280++ baht) and Sautéed chicken liver salad (250++ baht). The latter is a humble dish, but when the liver was combined with a tart and slightly sweet salad, it was marvelous to eat.

Among the main dishes, we were ecstatic about the Ox cheek braised in red wine (580++ baht). This is French ‘comfort food’ at its finest. We also thoroughly enjoyed the Duck confit with mashed potatoes in mustard sauce (580++ baht). Other mains that looked interesting were Tripe stewed in hearty tomato sauce (420++ baht), Wild boar braised in red wine (980++ baht) and Pan-roasted squab with foie gras sauce (1280++ baht).

At lunch 4 Garcons has a set menu available at 580++ baht that includes three courses plus tea or coffee. There are several selections available in each category, including five different desserts. All of the items on the set menu also appear on the a la carte menu so there is no scrimping to create an inexpensive and second rate set menu.

Desserts play a big role at 4 Garcons and there are 12 of them on the menu. We loved the Traditional French cake in syrup and rum (180++ baht) and a smashingly good Baked meringue with passionfruit (180++ baht). Our favorite, however, was the Caramelized apple tart on puff pastry (180++ baht). This is definitely a dessert to die for and something that will have us returning to 4 Garcons.

The wine list was original and refreshing with wines from several countries. There was also a good selection of excellent reasonably priced wines not often seen elsewhere – like a Delicato Merlot from California and some Schramsberg sparkling wines also from California. Eight wines were available by the glass; all available from a dispenser that not only kept them fresh, but at the correct temperature.

The setting of the restaurant is extremely attractive and a lot of effort has gone into making it that way. There is a large dining room with a variety of seating arrangements, including some popular green and white striped sofas. One wall is covered with a large mural Louis XIV furniture. There is a large outdoor area with a pond along one edge, dining tables and some comfy ‘U’ shaped sofas.

Lunch, dinner, an afternoon snack or drink – 4 Garcons has it all. This is a restaurant that is already good and is going to only get better.

Open daily from 11.30 to midnight with the last food order at 22.30. There is plenty of in the Oakwood Residence garage and there is free valet parking every night except Monday.

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