Interview Executive Chef Yoji Kitayama From Rakuza Tokyo

Yoji Kitayama is the dynamic and skilled Executive Chef at Thong Lor’s smart and contemporary looking Japanese restaurant Rakuza Tokyo, which is fast becoming renowned for the high quality of its dishes which feature traditional Japanese food, expertly presented.

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You’ve just changed the menu haven’t you?

Yes! Before we focused on fusion but the traditional dishes seemed to be more popular, especially with our Thai customers. They like the classics and as we were becoming popular for the quality of the fish we serve it was a natural change.

Where are you from?

Nagano in Japan – it’s in the middle of the country where the 1998 Winter Olympics were held.

What’s your work background?

I studied in Japan and since then have spent time in Amsterdam, Italy, France, Australia and now Bangkok.

There are a lot of Japanese restaurants so what makes Rakuza Tokyo different?

The menu is traditional so we offer all the classic dishes and we have really high quality imports. We have fish coming in twice a week. The tuna is from Oma which is the most famous area for tuna. It’s the absolute best.

What Japanese dishes are popular in Bangkok?

70% of Thais like sushi and sashimi

How is preparing Japanese food different from your European culinary experience

Japanese cooking is very simple but you need experience and to be creative. You need to know how to cut the fish. Some chefs cut the sashimi too thick or use the wrong rice. I don’t like too much decoration either. I think presentation is important but not overboard on flowers carved from carrots!

What makes a good chef?

Experience, thinking about the customers, passion and challenging yourself.

What is your favorite Japanese meal?

Cold soba noodles with soy sauce and wasabi. My grandfather always makes them. From the menu I love the red snapper grilled Yuan style. The fish is marinated in sake and soy sauce and lime and it is so fresh tasting.

What about non-Japanese?

Definitely pad thai and crab curry. I love Thai food too.

Have you ever served anyone famous?

Yes, I served Stevie Wonder once and made him a squid salad appetizer – it wasn’t on the menu so I invented it for him

If you could cook a meal for anybody who would it be?

UK celebrity chef Jamie Oliver. He’s my favorite chef because he’s so enthusiastic and I like his recipes. If not a chef then my mother. I never cook for her and she’s never come to one of my restaurants. I’d love to invite her here.

What’s it been like working in Thailand?

It was difficult at first. Japanese don’t smile so much! It can get stressful in the kitchen and I realised that my Thai team would sometimes laugh if I was talking about something serious. I found that a bit frustrating but I’m used to it now and we all get on. It’s a good team but yeah, it did take some time and understanding.

People either love sushi or hate the idea. What would you suggest for a sushi beginner?

Hamachi. It’s a Japanese yellow tail kingfish. It has a meaty texture and doesn’t taste raw and it isn’t an overpowering taste either. Some people think they don’t like sushi because they’ve never tried it or they haven’t had the top quality, high-grade fish. I’d probably recommend they come to Rakuza Tokyo first as I only serve the best!